Saturday, January 14, 2006

Cafe Ceramique - Town Center Dubai (18.06.05)

Dita and I just found a new way to spend our weekend or to chill out or to relieve our stress - whatever you want to call it. Ceramic painting... We tried it once. Frankly speaking, it was one of the soothing ways away from the crowd.Firstly, you choose the raw shape (Dita chose mugs for us, which I argued, as their rounded shapes are just too daunting to paint on.). Secondly, you have to select 5 filling and 2 lining colors. Thirdly, you order your cappucino (if you like one). Forthly, you think about the design (this is probably the most difficult part for me). Fifthly, you sip you cappucino, then off you go with the experiment.

For the filling colors, you must paint them at least 3 times or else they will hardly appear on the final product. The lining colors are very daunting. You push and push until it comes out. I hurt my arms because of this. Once you are done, they will put your ceramic into the fire. You can then collect them within a few days.

The whole process is never easy if you are not an artist. This also applies to me who had never translated my artistic imagination into a canvas for such a long time. Nevertheless, the whole experience was new for both of us. We'd love to return for a better result!

Golden Triangle: The Colors of India (23.08.04)

** The first draft as submitted for the Schlumberger MEA News Winter 2004 Edition**
By: Devita Berlina and Novel Tjahjadi

Since centuries, the cities of Golden Triangle have beckoned the travelers all around the world to India. The combination of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur presents the potpourri of India. The sights, sounds, smell and savor besides the souvenirs from each holiday destination of the Golden Triangle is enchanting. Arguably, this represents the highlight of our trip to India since we only could only spare one week in the country.

It is probably the most captivating holiday that can be spent at Northern India. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions of India. This tour presents the true color of India with Delhi, a rich tapestry of contrasts that is characteristic of this complex land, Agra, the zenith of art & an enshrined romance and Jaipur - exuberant with color for enjoying North India's fascinating cultural heritage.

A trip to India could be an all-out assault on the senses. India, with all its variety, feels it is impossible not to be astonished by India. You'll be traveling through dusty heat, sharing roads with a parade of bicycles, auto-rickshaws, sputtering motorcycles, tinsel-draped trucks, camel carts and the occasional cow (you may need nerves of steel and excellent karma to consider driving yourself in the Indian roads), but forget about that here you can find some of the globe's most majestic and historical sights.

Delhi

Our journey started with Delhi, the capital of India, in which history lives. The city consists of two distinguishable parts: Old Delhi, with its typically oriental city quarters, narrow alleys and bazaars, its temples, mosques and other historical monuments, and New Delhi, the imperial city created as the capital of India by the British.

The dignified buildings of the Parliament House along with the grand Rashtrapati Bhavan emphasize the role of Delhi at the capital city of the India. Close by, you may pay homage to the martyrs at their memorial India Gate. An impressive example of colonial architecture, India Gate is the symbol of modern Delhi. The 42-m-high stone arch was built by the British in honor of Indian soldiers killed in World War I. A popular tourist attraction, the gate is also a gathering place for Delhi residents, who love to stroll the area at night, eating ice cream and buying strands of flowers. Try to visit and take a picture of India Gate at night, illuminated and you’ll be surprised with the result. It’s very beautiful at night and don’t be surprised if your friends thought that the picture was taken in Champ-d’Elysees, Paris.

Another must-see monument is Qutab Minar. This soaring stone tower, 72-meter high was built by Qutub-ud-din Aibak in 1193. The Tower has five distinct stories, each with a projecting balcony. The base of Minar (tower) is 15m in diameter and the top just 2.5m in diameter, an amazing piece of work. At its base is the Quwwat-ul Islam Mosque, the first mosque ever built in India. The ruins of this place have been sensitively restored and reconstructed.

The magnificent red tomb of Humayun with the dashing double-dome and the char bagh style is a grand affair.

If you ever think that India is only about Hindu, then you’d better think again. The Jama Masjid is the real-life proof of the country’s diversity. Built in the Moslem quarter of the city, this 17th century mosque is the largest in India. Also known as the Friday Mosque, this mosque has three onion-domed from black and white marble (it is said that the dome is reportedly the second-largest in the world). If you are planning to visit this place, don’t forget that this place closed to all non-Muslims visitor during prayer time.

Delhi is also a house for great forts. You may start your fort adventure by visiting theRed Fort. Emperor Shah Jahan built this magnificent 17th-century fortress. With its massive red sandstone walls and gates, Lal Qila, as it also is known, dominates the east side of Old Delhi and is considered the city's No. 1 attraction. Inside the walls are an impressive assortment of smaller buildings, including the Diwan-I-am (Hall of the People, where the emperor heard disputes from his subjects) and Diwan-I-khas (Hall of Special Audiences, where the emperor met with dignitaries). The Rang Mahal was the apartment of royal ladies, while the Pearl Mosque was the emperors' private place of prayer. Chatta Chowk (Covered Bazaar), where the royals once shopped for silks and jewelry, is now packed with tourist shops. An impressive sound-and-light show that recounts the city's history is performed nightly (in English and Hindi).

Another fort which is worth visiting is Purana Qilam meaning “old fort”. The small lake in front is popular for boating. Nearby, we could salute the Father of the Nation at the Gandhi Memorial and the Raj Ghat.

Apart from being the Capital city, Delhi is also well known for souvenirs, which you would love to take home with you. In Big Souvenir Shop in Delhi such as The Governments Emporiums and The Central Cottage Industries, you can find collection of the finest art and craft from all over India at fixed prices, no bargaining, but in general prices of all articles are high. If you have enough time better save your money for the places like Delhi Haat The Art and Market.

Agra

Agra is near enough to Delhi - 220km - popular worldwide as it houses the greatest tribute to love by any mortal to his love, the legendary Taj Mahal.

The Taj Mahal, described as the most extravagant monument ever built for love, has become the de facto tourist emblem of India. This poignant Mughal mausoleum was constructed by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his second wife Mumtaz Mahal, whose death in childbirth in 1631 left the emperor so heartbroken that his hair is said to have turned grey overnight.

Construction of the Taj began in the same year by no less than 20,000 workers and was not completed until 1653. Besides this romantic story about Taj Mahal, there is cruel tales behind it. One of the legends of the Taj is that the emperor cut off the hands of the master masons who built it, so that they could never build anything lovelier. If you're planning to check out this marvel, don't forget that it's closed on Friday to all non-Muslims.

The city's other major attraction is the massive red sandstone 16th century Agra Fort – the treasure house of the Mughal architecture - also on the bank of the Yamuna River. The fort’s walls rise over 20m in height and measure 2.5km in circumference. It contains a maze of superb halls, mosques, chambers and gardens, which form a small city within a city. Unfortunately not all buildings are open to visitors, including the white marble Pearl Mosque, regarded by some as the most beautiful mosque in India.

Any trip to Agra is incomplete without the visit to the Swamibag Temple. While it is less famous compared to the two previous monuments, the visit of this magnificent temple will definitely sweep you off your feet.

Jaipur

The final angle of the golden triangle tour is the capital city of Rajasthan - Jaipur, which can be reached by road in about 4 hours (400 kms) from Agra.

Jaipur displays a remarkable harmony and architectural splendor. The only planned city of its time, this “Pink City” – so-called because a great deal of the older part is built of pink-colored stone - is encircled by a formidable wall.

The Amber Fort is a spectacular fortress-palace protecting a complex of palaces, temples, exquisite marble and mirror-inlaid halls and apartments. The highlight of the tour is an elephant ride up the hill at the Fort like a Maharaja! We had a great fun riding on Laxmi, a pregnant elephant, which might be the slowest of all.

Located at the main street of the old city, you will find Hawa Mahal (Wind Palace), a high and intricately carved wall behind which women of the court were sequestered while watching processions.

Strolling along, you will find yourself in the middle of the main flea markets which sell handicrafts and hand-decorated textiles, a regional specialty. Here you usually can have reasonable prices but of course, bargaining is mandatory. Start offering 50% of what you are willing to pay and do not look very enthusiastic. That’s the trick!

Nearby, the City Palace houses an excellent collection of Rajasthani costumes, miniatures and an armory of Rajput weapons. The charming palace reveals a combination of the Rajasthan and Mughal styles of architecture.

Neemrana Fort – Palace

The highlight of our trip was definitely the short stay in Neemrana Fort, one of the best heritage hotels in the world and only a hundred kilometers away from Delhi airport. Built since 1464 AD, the ruins of this Fort-Palace have been sensitively restored and reconstructed in 1986, so here we can connect the past from the future.

The rooms are very unique, furnished with an eclectic mix of traditional Indian and colonial furniture antiques and objects d'art. Most rooms have private balconies or terraces overlooking the hill with magnificent views! Room rate available from USD 25 to USD 270!

Do not forget to relax and enjoy the free yoga and meditation exercises and revitalize yourself with the authentic Ayuervedic rejuvenation treatment. An excellent way to round up the inspiring journey to the Golden Triangle. Such an incomparable travel experience!

Esfahan: The Pearl of Persia (08.03.04)

**The first draft as submitted for the Schlumberger MEA News Summer 2004 Edition**

It is true that Islamic Republic of Iran has been well known for its magnificent choices of Persian carpets. However, there are a lot more to see in this country.

Nowadays, the country is relatively easy to explore, with a cheap and extensive network of domestic transportations (buses, trains and planes). You could also find a reasonable range of accommodation. In general, the people are friendly and becoming more and more open towards the foreigners. In some occasions, you may find someone greeting you and trying to practice English with you.

If you want a brand new holiday experience, Iran is worth ‘discovering’. The best time to visit is anytime other than summer. Ladies, don’t forget to wear a headscarf and overcoat.

Among many cultural heritages in Iran, Esfahan (or Isfahan) is a city where you could find a catalogue of fascinations. In this writing, I’d like to share what I witnessed during my two-day visit in Esfahan.

Day One

Esfahan is located in the center of Iran, south of Tehran. With magnificent monuments all over the city, the outstanding architecture and ornamentations of the mosques which belong to different era, the fascinating bazaar, wonderful old bridges and a great variety of exotique handicrafts, Esfahan is undoubtedly Iran’s masterpiece.

The flight from Tehran takes about 40 minutes (and only cost me $35!). I began my two-day adventure with a walk to Jameh Mosque. The mosque is an extraordinary complex of mosques displaying styles from the 11th to the 18th century. It is also the biggest mosque in Iran. The moment I stepped into the complex, I was stunned with the exquisite blue mosaic style and the dazzling minarets. Obviously, it was a good scene to start my journey with. I just could not imagine that this mosque was once hit by an Iraqi bomb during the war, but suffered only minor damages.

My next destination would be the huge Emam Khomeini Square. But to reach there, I decided to walk through Bazar-e Bozorg (Great Bazaar) whereby you find people selling just about anything. Don’t be surprised if you get lost between the passages. The place really looks like a maze which links the Jame Mosque with the Emam Khomeini Square (Therefore, you need to learn some basic Farsi, such as “…koja st?” – where is the… as the people speak very little English.)

Once I managed to find the exit gateway of the ‘labyrinth’ , I was completely amazed with the scene ahead of me, the glorious Emam Khomeni Square. It is a huge rectangular square with a pool in the center. I could easily spotted three main Islamic buildings which soon became the highlight of my visit in Esfahan. On the east end stands the pale-dome Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque which, in my personal opinion, has the most gorgeous works on art reflected in its blue and turquoise mosaic that adorns the wall and ceiling. The motifs and calligraphy around the wall are superb and full of complexity (I wondered how long it took them to finish it!).

The Emam Mosque is another elegant mosque. At first, I was wondering why they built it with an angle against the Square. Soon I learned that it was purposely angled to point in the direction of the holy city of Mecca. The mosque itself comprises four iwans (halls) in one of which you could find the main sanctuary where you can contemplate the beauty of its golden rose pattern on the ceiling.

Having seen three beautiful mosques, Ali Qapu Palace (Gate of Ali - still in the Square) gave me a different perspective about the Islamic architecture. You can climb the to the terrace from where you will get the best view of the Square and the Emam Mosque. It is said that from the terrace the Safavid kings and the royal members used to oversee races and some entertainments performed in the square. You can sit there under the shade to relax a little bit.

The Emam Khomeni Square is undoubtedly Esfahan’s masterpiece. It is also a paradise for the souvenir shopping. A bazaar with hundreds of handicraft shops encircles the square. All you need is to bring Iranian Rials (credit cards would not be of a use in Iran) and your bargaining skill!

Another extraordinary work of art, Chehel Sotun Palace (Forty Columns), is also a walking distance and stands in an awesome Persian garden. In the beginning, I was confused with the name as I could only count 20 columns on its terrace. But then they told me that I had to see the reflections of the columns in the garden’s rectangular pool. Aha! Now I figured out the where the name of Forty Columns came from! Inside the Palace hall, you can enjoy a catalogue of historical frescoes in a grand scale, miniatures and ceramics.

Before sunset, I rushed to the luxurious Abassi Hotel that amazed me with its Persian-style decoration. It is definitely a perfect place to ling over an afternoon Iranian chay (tea) in its teahouse and rest my exhausted feet while enjoying the magnificence of the courtyard.

Heading back to my hotel, I walked past the Emam Khomeini Square when the day got dark. This time I was stunned with the number of local people flooding in and enjoying their dinner by the pool. With the fountains on, the lights and the illuminated splendid architecture, the night scene is way more lively than it is in the morning or early afternoon. It is a scene you would not find anywhere else.

Day Two

Day two is a bridge tour. But before driving (yes, this time I suggest you rent a taxi as the places are quite a distance from one to another) through the bridges, I had a chance to witness the uniqueness of the Shaking Minarets (Manar Jomban). Climb up to one of the minarets and push it hard. You will notice it will start to sway back and forth followed by its twin which stands about 10 meters apart. Amazing! It will leave you with a question mark in mind: how could that happen?

While speculating the answer, the taxi took me to the disused fire temple, Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan, which lies on the top of a small rocky hill which is quite steep to climb. These ancient mud-brick ruins gave me a stunning view of the city and the Zayandeh River. After all, it is worth climbing (I suggest you take a bottle of water with you as this could be quite an excessive exercise for some people).

The bridges are my next destination. They said there are 11 of them across the river. The 5 old bridges are definitely more of the tourist interests.

Si-o-She Bridge is probably one of the longest. The 160m-long bridge is worth wandering, though I personally prefer Khaju Bridge which was built in 1650. This finest bridge has two levels of terraces overlooking the river and mountains. Breathtaking view! Strolling along its 132-m length, I could hear some local people chanting traditional Persian songs. You could also enjoy the view and inhale the fresh air while sipping a cup of chay or Iranian ice cream by the river.

Chubi Bridge is another landmark of Esfahan though it could easily be ignored. Shahrestan Bridges is one of its kind. The oldest of all. The bridge has a unique 11-arched stone and brick structure which was believed to be built back in the 12 century.

While killing my time, waiting for my flight back to Tehran, I paid a visit to Jolfa, the Armenian quarter of Esfahan. It was an overwhelming feeling having learned that there are some Christian inhabitants in this country living in one community. My initial purpose was to visit Vank Cathedral, Church of Betlehem and Maryam Church. But I guess I arrived at the wrong time as none of them was open that afternoon. I could only enjoy their architectures from outside.

However, it did not disappoint me at all. After all, I have witnessed the triumphs of one of the ancient cities in the world with its incomparably unique and diverse architectures. The trip was fascinating and rewarding!

Set a Drift down Memory Lane in Qatar (08.06.05)

It's been 6.5 years since I left Doha. It seems ages ago. Yet, the place is still close to my heart. The old times and the old friends. I am so happy to see the people that I used to work with. It's amazing that they still remember me, though I am no longer wearing the coverall! Vrinda, our secretary; Ismail, my crew chief, who has recently called me a number of times; Sunil, my ex-crew, MM Thomas, Thomas George, Joseph, Abdi, Ali, Ivan, Prakash, so forth.... Where's Danny (my ex-crew)? Oh, he is on vacation.

The new base in the Industrial Area is obviously much larger than the old one. But it's just a bit too far from the city center (30-min drive and in the middle of nowhere). Well, Doha is literally small anyway, even much smaller than Dubai. I reckon it's probably one fourth as big as Dubai.

Off I went to explore the city on the very first night. Not many changes on the Ras Abou Aboud side (I stay in Marriot, next to our old base who used to be inside QGPC Complex, not it's called QP). But you'll notice some ongoing constructions on the other side of the Corniche where Sheraton was the only high rise building. Now, lay the City Center shopping mall, Ritz Carlton and some other middle-high skyscrapers. A little farther, they will start reclaiming for the man-made The Pearl Island, similar to the Palms or The World in Dubai.

No wonder, they seem to be in a competition with Dubai. It's obvious from the way they are aggresively promoting Qatar Airways. I've recently seen QA ads on the tv more often than Emirates.

But can they really compete with Dubai? Well, it's true Qatar is probably richer than Dubai as they are the largest gas producer in the world. But what would they sell to the investors? I think this is going to be a challenge. And I think it is going to be years before they can be considered on par with Dubai in terms of infrastucture. Can they compete with Jebel Ali as an attractive tax-free zone, for example? Can they attract more tourists with the limitation of the natural resources?

Talking about tourism, I was just flipping through a tour brochure which belongs to one of the managers. Believe me, it reminds me of the Kish Island's (South Iran) tourism brochure in which they really try hard to advertise (or perhaps the exact word would be 'exaggerate') the small scales of tourist attractions. If I were a tourist, I would probably think twice to visit Qatar at least for now(no offense, please.) I don't know about 5 years for now. Things may change.

After all, I was quite impressed with the new airport. Spacious, robust and surprisingly efficient. I still remember exactly how small the old airport was. The duty free counters (not even shops) were probably about 10-m long. That was about it! It also came to my surprise that they are indeed in the process of constructing a new international airport in an island! (I assume it's going to be another man-made island.) So much for the money!I passed by our old compound next to The Centre. It's gone completely, demolished and replaced by some facilities. Then my mind started drifting down memory lane with my crazy friends: Karim, Kashif, Masa, Hamid, Artid, Amer Hanif, Tom, etc....

India: A Paradise for the Bookworms. Why Can't We Do The Same? (30.05.05)

Books are relatively cheap in India. And believe me, I've become addicted to them. Crosswords in the Kemp Corner Mumbai, is my favorite bookstore, though it's quite a distant from the Hyatt Regency Hotel. But they have a wide range of book collections. Well, of course, it's not as complete as, say, WH Smith or Waterstone in UK, let alone Amazon.com, but the prices are amazingly cheaper than any other places in the world. Another thing is that you can find any paperbacks in this subcontinent way before they publish them somewhere else. It's a good feeling when you are reading John Grisham paperback at Dubai airport while a person sitting opposite to you envies you and wonders where on earth I bought that paperback!

As soon as I drop my stuffs in the hotel room, I instantly hit the road and headed to the Crosswords (Well, Tekson in Delhi is also a good option.) Now, it has become my habit.

Yesterday, I did book shopping like there's no tomorrow. Not entirely for myself, of course. Dita, Anton and Wingky asked me to buy Jamie Oliver's and some other cooking books which are, darn, thick and heavy! I bought 3 copies of Jack Welch's Winning as the gifts. And some other books. In the end, I ended up buying 19 books altogether! Though the store manager could not give me some discounts, yet I managed to persuade him to hand me a 500 Rupees voucher. Enough to exchange with 1 or 2 books.

They also recommended a couple of good books which I may buy later (hopefully I'll be back again.) This indicates that even their staff read. Well, at least, they were quite fluent when I 'examined' their knowledge about the contents of the books.

I often think if Indians can run such a good book business, why can't Indonesians? Our population is also huge. Yet, I've never seen a good store with imported books and reasonable prices. I've been to Aksara in Kemang. Good concept. Bookstore and cafe. Still, the prices of textbooks are just too much for young people or students. Not sure if they have a good collection though. But I mean, if we can make some sorts of agreements with the foreign distributors like the Indians do, we could definitely get cheaper prices.

Yet, of course, things are getting more complicated when it comes to the piracy issue. *Sigh* This issue is inevitably the biggest turn-off for the foreigners to do any IP business with Indonesia. I am not trying to emerge such a classic discussion here, because I can assure you at the end we'll end up pointing our fingers to the system and our Government.

The situation can be incondusive. But it cannot be wrong to keep such a dream. A dream that I have been dreaming for years. In that dream I will run a (chain of) cozy bookstore(s) with coffee shops and reasonable prices for the students and young. Let books remain one of the best teachers for everyone.

Last Day in Iran (18.05.05 PM)

Been waiting for this moment to come. Sitting in the new classy Tehran Int'l Airport and enjoying every minute of my last trip to Persia (well, at least, for my current assignment). It took us 1.5 hrs to get through the busy Tehran traffic before we eventually arrived at this airport which was literally built in the middle of nowhere. To my surprise, the building is of something that Iranians should be proud of, though lacking the Persian touch, in my opinion.
Could not believe that I'd been to Iran back and forth for the last 2 years. It seems a long time.

Building Snowmen (09.02.05 PM)

Today, Kho inspired me (thanks, buddy!) to take those candidates out in the snow to build a snowman. Creativity is one of the words associated with the recruiters. Yeah, you need to be creative and come up with some fresh ideas. After all, everybody including myself had fun. Never in my life had I seen such thick snow nor had I built a snowman before. In spite of the freezing weather, they successfully built two snowmen in time (well, one skinny snowman and one chubby, yet cute, snowwoman, to be very exact).

A Short Note from the Tehran Airport Lounge (09.02.05 PM)

Another waiting in another airport lounge. The same routine for a frequent flyer like me. Not that I’m complaining, but I think I’ve lost the interest in sitting in this privileged place. The food and the beverages are the same, as if they were never really thinking about the people like me who keep coming back and being served with the same things over and over again. Can they not be creative? Or probably they wouldn’t bother to make a change. Or perhaps, nobody has complained before, so they are assuming everybody is satisfied. Anyway, at least, the couch feels more comfortable than the bench outside.
(Gee… that Chinese guy sitting in front of smokes like a locomotive. Hasn’t stopped since I got in. He must have a spare lung).

Today Was Such a Crazy Day: Snow in Tehran (08.02.05 PM)

Today was such a crazy day.
The snow was getting thicker this morning (yet it’s still snowing.) Woke up early this morning hoping to catch the shuttle bus. Went to the guest house lobby at 7.15 and found out it had just left. Darn! Tried to arrange a taxi. As predicted, they refused to come as the snow was as high as an adult’s hip. Sedans would definitely not make it. Made calls here and there trying to arrange our company’s car. No luck. Finally, at 8.30 the same bus returned from the office and picked us up. My first interview was scheduled at 8. I was way too late for that. By the time I reached the office, it was 9.45. 5 people were impatiently waiting for me. Sorry, guys….

Today was such a crazy day.
Thousands of emails (well, of course, I’m exaggerating here) came to my mailbox which I somehow managed to reply in between the interviews. (Arrghhh.... stop sending me emails, guys!)

Today was such a crazy day. I asked the receptionist to order some fried chickens for my lunch (Didn’t bother to go out in such a weather.) Guess what I got? Chicken burger!!! There go my fried chickens….

Today was such a crazy day.
There was this candidate who came for an interview and showed off his Spanish language in front of us. Who did he think he was? We are not even a Spanish company. No one in the room even speaks Spanish. We didn’t even ask him a question in Spanish. Then, he started rambling when asked to present himself. Some people just don’t know what they are talking about. Needless to say, this guy was rejected. In the evening, he called me (I shouldn’t have answered it) and complained about the result (of course, if he had been accepted, he wouldn’t have complained, right?) I guess I was being nice him on the phone, but I made it as straight as possible to the point. No second chance.

Today was such a crazy day.
I keep praying the snow will stop hours before my return flight to Dubai on Wed evening. Getting stuck in Tehran over the weekend is really not an option. And guess what, tomorrow is indeed a public holiday in Dubai (Islamic New Year) and I didn’t even know it until today! If I’d known it before, I wouldn’t have traveled to Iran.

Today was such a crazy day.
Tri, Kho and I went to have dinner in a Thai restaurant in Enghelab Hotel. We were expecting the worst, but hey, the food quality was pretty authentic (thanks, Tri, for the treat.)

A good treat to end such a crazy day with.