Saturday, January 05, 2008

Persepolis: Iran According to a (former) Iranian

An autobiography of Marjane Satrapi, whom I call a liberal Iranian woman (now lives in Paris), in a graphical black and white novel.

In fact, I was introduced to this book first in 2004 when I visited Karim, my best friend, in Beirut. He strongly recommended it. But I did not bother to buy them until it was recently adapted to an animated movie early last year (directed by Marjane herself and Vincent Parronaud). It immediately received a huge success in France, critically acclaimed and awared le prix de jury at the prestigious Cannes Film Festival last year. Now, it is on its way trying its luck at this year's Oscar.

I personally found the book interesting (Dita gave it to me as my birthday present). Whilst reading it, my mind drifted back to the years 2003-2005 during which I traveled quite frequently between Dubai and different parts of Iran for my recruiting job. I visited the universities and colleges in different towns and met a lot of Iranians. Although I never really lived in there, but my regular visits in the past allowed me to learn about their rich cultures, the people, the history and a little bit of politics. When I read Persepolis, it felt like I was having a deja vue. I feel like someone else has already told me a similar tale about Iran before. Yes,everything is similar to what I saw and heard back then. The black veils, the 'guardians', the satellite dish story, the underground party and so forth. In fact, I now have a few good friends from Iran.

During my visit, I always felt sorry for the people out there and for the current social and economical situations there. Persia used to be an extremely rich and well respected country. People lived in a good standard of living. They are rich of natural resources, including oil, but the classic question is "where has the money gone?" The gap between the rich and the pool is extremely huge! (You will find the rich Iranians investing in The Palm Dubai or living in LA. They even have a Persian tv channel over there! Many migrated to Canada or Scandinavia.)

Wandering around Iran, you feel like you are in the 60's. The infrastructure, the vehicles... how they look obsolete. Old local manufactured cars dominate the polutted streets. But you can still see old models of Peugeot or Citroen quite often. Many Japanese, Korean and French products benefit from the US embargo policy.

First impression about the people: they are very welcoming, although within the two-year time span I had a few bad impressions with some of them (I don't blame them for being too prejudice though). As I said, I have now some nice and warm-hearted Iranian friends. Once they know you well, they will respect the relationships.

Now, back to the book. In fact, Persepolis has nothing to do with its content. The setting was mainly in Tehran (and Vienna). Persepolis is the ancient name of Shiraz (historically famous for the wine) which I have visited once. Incredible Romanian ruins and some tombs of the Persian kings. Amongst the Iranian cities, I like Esfahan most. Very rich of cultures with some picturesque bridges.

The book is extremely entertaining with a lot of irony about the suppressed life in Iran. Marjane, an art graduate, has a unique way of storytelling through the black and white graphics. I then learned how comics can be the most effective way to convey a biography, particularly that of someone unheard of before, like Marjane). The only thing I do not agree is the way she depicts God in the book (I think she's way too liberal on this).

After finishing the book, we watched the dvd only last week. Like many books that were brought into big screens, most are disapppointing. Persepolis is unexceptional. Even though I admire the unique animation (the graphics are better than those in the book), 85 minutes seem a bit too short to convey every single thing from the book. As a result, you will find several parts have intentionally been omitted. Those who never read the book before perhaps will find it rather confusing.

Nevertheless, Persepolis is a breakthrough for animation movies, autobiographies and the people of Iran, although I personally doubt the movie itself will ever openly be out at cinemas in Iran. Apparently, Marjane seems more optimistic. She cited in one of the interviews that the people in Iran will find a way to watch her movie, even if it means to get it through a black market (as usual... like all banned Western music or movies).

Un chapeau pour Marjane Satrapi (a heavy smoker with a mole on her nose)! Bonne chance a Oscar!

You can find two inspiring interviews with Marjane here and here.


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Thursday, January 03, 2008

Marrakech (Part 3): Riad Zara... A Review

***As posted at tripadvisor.com, Jan 2, 2008***

“Riad Zara: Feels Like Home!”

'Excellent' may be an overrate. But 'home' is perhaps the proper word to describe Riad Zara. The moment we stepped into this maison d'hotes (guest house), we quickly felt like home with a very warm and sincere welcome extended by Monique, the owner. If anyone is looking for a customer service 'guru' in the hotelier industry, she should be the one to turn to. We have stayed in many different hotels, B&B or guest houses before. Never had we received such a homey service like that from Monique and her little team.

My wife was ill on the first two days in Marrakech. If it was not for Monique, we could not have imagined what would happen. She was willingly called a doctor and drove us to a hospital with her own car. She even stayed with us and explained to the doctor, until we were clear to go. She asked her son, Corentin (who was also very nice), to go to the pharmacy for us. She took care of my wife with a special soup and tea. She enjoyed playing and singing with my 2.5-yo daughter too.

On the Christmas eve, we sat for a Christmas dinner together with Monique’s family (her children paid her a visit from France) and otherguests. They even prepared some gifts for us! When you are away from home for Christmas, this is the least you could expect. But Monique made us feel like home.

Monique patiently explained to us the Medina map (whose maze-like alleys are quite confusing for the first timers), places to visit and some tips & tricks to bargain at the souks. Her details would complement the information you may get from a travel book or internet. She would also take her time to help other guests arrange a day trip out of town or even arrange a massage service at the riad itself.

They served nice local bread at breakfast with a variety of jams. If you decide to have lunch and dinner in there, they are quite flexible too. Their couscous and tagine are very competitive compared to the restaurants around Jemaa-el-Fna Square.

Obviously, there are many riads all over Medina you can opt for. But if you are looking for a cosy one, 15-minute walk from the Square and a lot of personal touch, I strongly recommend Riad Zara. However, there is one thing your should be aware of. Upon arrival at the airport, a lady was holding a Riad Zara board (exactly the same name!) which we immediately thought it was ‘our’ Riad Zara (FYI, Monique’s Riad Zara always clearly writes the guest names on the board for the airport pickup). After exchanging names etc, they took us to ‘their’ Riad Zara (inside the Medina too). They did not have any sign whatsoever outside the house. But then we realized it was a different one! We immediately walked to Monique’s Riad Zara. Although it was nobody’s fault, you should be aware of this! You should look for this one.

Marakech is not an "easy-to-access" city. Not like Paris, London or Barcelona, where you might find it easy to find anything you need on your own. As a tourist, you definitely need a local experience for a little guide, which you may get from the owner of the riad. However, when selecting a riad, beware that there are some riads in the Medina that are only managed by local staffs, i.e. the owner does not live there, hence you only deal with the staffs on day-to-day needs (you can consider yourself lucky if they speak a little bit of English or French... and for sure they speak Arabic).
_________________
This TripAdvisor Member:
Liked — Superb customer service attitude and homey
Disliked — N/A
Date of Stay: December 22-26, 2007
Traveled with: Family with young children
Visit was for: Quality time with family
Would I recommend this hotel to my best friend? Absolutely!
I recommend this hotel for: Young singles, An amazing honeymoon, A romantic getaway, Girlfriend getaway, Older travelers, Families with young children, Families with teenagers, Tourists
I do not recommend this hotel for: Great pool scene, Pet owners
I selected this hotel as a top choice for: Museums / Cultural / Historical sites, Other.


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Tuesday, January 01, 2008

Au Revoir, Fumeurs

As of today, Jan 1, 2008, smoking is officially banned from public spaces all over France, including cafes, restaurants, bars etc. What good news for non-smokers!

Me, as a fanatic non-smoker, I can only jump up and down joy (sorry, smokers!). I can't agree more with the law. Non-smokers, including our kids, have every right too to inhale nice fresh air in public spaces without being polluted by the cigarettes.

Well, at least now when we go to a restaurant, we should not waste our time answering "smoking or no smoking" question. Nor should we worry of sitting in a non-smoking zone, yet still smelling the smoke. Nor should we worry of cigarette smell all over our hair, face, clothes or jackets upon leaving a cafe. Nor should we get mad at a smoker sitting and smoking ignorantly next to your little kids. Nor should we get our eyes red due to the smoke in a bar. Alleluya!

But until then, we should see how this law imposition goes....


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Time Bridge (Happy New Year)

The first dawn
The first sunshine
Once again, we passed the time bridge
For as long as we live



Never look back
For it's a long way to go
Through thick and thin
We made no mistakes
Only lessons to be learned

A brand new year is here
Waiting to bring the best out in us
Be grateful for this opportunity
To give and take
And to grow in maturity

Welcome to another time bridge....

(Novel, Paris - Jan 1, 2008)


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Saturday, December 29, 2007

Marrakech (Part 2)

If there is one word to describe the owner of Riad Zara, it must be A-N-G-E-L.

Monique is the angel. She is a French mother, at her 50's, having lived in Marrakech for 3.5 years. Grenoble origin, she runs the maison d'hotes herself (with a couple of aides), whilst her kids live in France.

The first two days Dita was ill. It was Monique who helped us call the doctor and volunteerily take us to the hospital. She even stayed there with us whilst Dita was going through all the procedures. I felt God has sent us an angel. If it was not for her, we could not imagine what could happened during that difficult time.

If I could, I would tell and shout to the world of her kind and warm heart. In such a restless world, you hardly find anything like this. You don't even know that sincere heart still exists. We hardly know each other, yet she poured her compassion and sympathy like a mother to her child. Immediately, we felt like she was our mother in Marrakech.

She did not only do this to us, but every guest we met at Riad Zara showed their satisfaction of her personal approach. It makes a difference. We also had Christmas dinner (big dinner indeed, with 7 rounds!) together with Monique and her family (they came to visit her for the Christmas). We felt like one big family. They even loved Nadia so much.

We know "thank you" is not sufficient to express our gratitude to her, her family and her small team. All we know is that sincere hearts still exist. Merci beaucoup, Madame Monique. You have inspired us with your simplicity and unconditional love.


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Friday, December 28, 2007

Marrakech (Part 1)

***Dec 22-26, 2007... You can find some of our photos here***

Dusty and smelly. That's my first impression of Marrakech. But quickly, it was turned around by the lively Jemaa el-Fna Square and the mazes of local souks (markets).

Medina (old town) is the heart of Marrakech. Most of the tourist happenings take place there. Narrow alleys, mostly for pedestrians, horse and donkey carriages and, of course, flies... I mean, motorbikes! Oh yes, they are like flies roaring all over you. You feel like your life depends on them. Sometimes, I think they run too fast and at times you don't know where they are heading to. Amazingly, during our stay, we did not see a single accident! It must have taken quite a skill to ride a motobike there!

The dusty, muddy and stoned-path alleys reminded me of the old poor parts of Jakarta, like Karang Anyar or Pasar Minggu where I used to visit my Grandpa at Eid (when I was a little kid). Strolling through, I enjoyed watching local people. As dirty as you can imagine, but it is less disgusting than, say, India (sorry, no offense). At least, I did not see any human dirts or perhaps there was a few trashes. The pink houses are also trademarks of the old town.

Jemaa el-Fna Square was our first place to hang out. Always busy day and night, weekdays and weekends! Orange juice stalls and snake charms during the day (I don't enjoy watching snakes, though). Traditional musicians, food stalls, belly dancers... at night. I have never seen such a variety in a square before in my life. Very lively.

The mazes of souks... a place to practice your bargaining skills. Oh, I enjoyed it a lot. It feels great when you can get a stuff at the price you think is reasonable (although you never know whether it's a good value). In general, the merchants are more 'friendly' than those in Istanbul, for example. You can bargain hard without them getting upset (that's a good start). You can even come back after a while and continue your bargain... and they still welcome you in a friendly attitude. Talking to our fellow guests at Riad Zara, I think we bargained much better than them (of course the white people are not used to it). We take advantage of two things: being Indonesians and speaking French (oh, this is a good thing about Moroccons... they speak French as well as they speak Arabic.) The variety of the stuffs are also interesting. From conical spices, glass-stained laterns, leather, local cactus silk to colorful carpets. If you want to explore the whole souks, you need at least two days. You'll never get bored, unless you are not an art person.

Couscous and tagine are of course authentic. I had been skeptical with them, but the local tastes changed my perception. I just loved them! We tried different restaurants. They tasted somehow slightly different. Still, you loved them all. And don't forget the hot sweet mint tea. Though I found it a little too sweet.

Historical monuments... there are a few. We did not have much time to visit them all, but I think we visited the highlights, like the amazing Medersa Ben Youssef (Quran school) and Palais La Bahia. The landscape and decorations reminded me of Andalucia (Southern Spain), which is just their neighbor. Riding a horse-carriage is a good way to get introduced to the old and new towns. Only 10 euros for one hour. Not bad at all. Plus, Nadia liked it very much.

Indonesians... please note: you do not need a visa to enter Morocco! Isn't it amazing? Gee... for the first time in my life, I don't need a visa to travel outside South East Asia countries with my Indonesian passport. It was very unfortunate we did not have a chance to try one of the hammams nor did we visit the Atlas mountain area for a day-trip. I heard Fez is also nice. It is probably a good reason to come back.


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Sunday, December 23, 2007

The Masterplan

Polyclinique du Sud, Marrakech (Marroco)
Sunday, Dec 23, 2007

We came here for our Christmas break. We came here to enjoy the city, the food and the culture. Like any other vacationers, we came here with a PLAN... our vacation plan.

A plan is still a plan. But God holds every key to His masterplan. This is what I have believed since I was a kid. A man can always make a plan in his life, but it is up to God if He would give you the privilege to make it happen.

Today, in Marrakech, God once again showed us His power and His masterplan.
He had given us the joy of keeping the fetus for two months in Dita's store, but then He eventually decided to take it away from us. As painful as it could be, Dita and I could only pray, down on our knees. We were of course disappointed. We just lost our unborn baby. We lost our miracle. We cried. Yet, we were not mad at God. Who are we to be mad at Him? He has given us a lot in our lives. Now if He wants to take it back from us, He has the ultimate power to do so. We don't. It hurt (even until now...), but we both are believers. Everything we have on earth belongs to Him. We believe that.

Now we advance with our lives....

We also would like to thank our families and friends for their supports from a distance. Even though we are apart, their words are meant the world to us in that particularly hard time.

Rest in peace, our unborn baby
Merry Christmas, baby Jesus

Only for a time
I must not learn to call you mine
Familiarize that face, those eyes
Make future plan that cannot be confirmed
On borrowed time
On easy terms....

("Easy Terms", Blood Brothers)


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Thursday, December 06, 2007

December News

Hello all

It's been a while since our very last news (and I have not updated my blog since Oct 29!). Both, Dita and I have been extremely busy. Here are some updates from the gloomy Paris:

  1. I started my Executive MBA mid Nov (in fact the pre-course had commenced a month before), as some of you may have known. It is a 13-month program. My new routines: work during the day and hit the books from 9pm (and all weekends) to as long as my eyes allow me. I think I'll be a coffee addict in a few weeks time! But of course, I always try hard to spare my time with Dita and Nadia, although it means we'll have less free time in the weekends. Details of the school and program will come soon in my blog.

  2. Dita has started searching for maternelle school for Nadia (here it starts at the age of 3) for Sep 2008 (assuming we'll still be in Paris by then).
    If we don't start the enrollment now, chances are we'll end up with no place. We are eyeing a private Catholic school, St Joseph, 10-min walk from our place, having surveying some public and private ones. And... St Joseph is French-speaking.

  3. Christmas is just around the corner. You can feel the ambience around Paris. Parties are lining up this month. We have booked ourselves for a short trip to Marrakech (Marroco) Dec 22-26 (trying to get out of the Parisien gloomy weather). No ski trip this year. No plan for New Year yet. Most likely, we'll be in Paris. What are your plans?

  4. Nadia is as ever cheerful as you all know her. She is becoming more and more articulate now with a lot of Indonesian and French words, phrases and tunes. She's got teddy-bear theme on her Christmas tree at home. Little Einsteins (Petits Einsteins) are still her favorite tv program. Unfortunately, her hair has not yet grown as much as her eyelashes :-). Her swimming lesson continues, which she always look forward to.

  5. Last but not least, we are expecting our second baby (Insya Allah, in July 2008). Dita is doing fine until now. No morning sickness whatsoever (as yet). Pls pray for us.

Once again, we apologize for not having been in contact with most of you for a while. We promise we'll do.Take a good care and talk to you soon.

PS. Karim - it was nice seeing you in Paris. Thanks for the visit. Wingky - what a shame! Next time you'll have to stay over.


Bisou

Nadia, Dita & Novel (Les Parisiens)


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