**The first draft as submitted for the Schlumberger MEA News Summer 2004 Edition**
It is true that Islamic Republic of Iran has been well known for its magnificent choices of Persian carpets. However, there are a lot more to see in this country.
Nowadays, the country is relatively easy to explore, with a cheap and extensive network of domestic transportations (buses, trains and planes). You could also find a reasonable range of accommodation. In general, the people are friendly and becoming more and more open towards the foreigners. In some occasions, you may find someone greeting you and trying to practice English with you.
If you want a brand new holiday experience, Iran is worth ‘discovering’. The best time to visit is anytime other than summer. Ladies, don’t forget to wear a headscarf and overcoat.
Among many cultural heritages in Iran, Esfahan (or Isfahan) is a city where you could find a catalogue of fascinations. In this writing, I’d like to share what I witnessed during my two-day visit in Esfahan.
Day One
Esfahan is located in the center of Iran, south of Tehran. With magnificent monuments all over the city, the outstanding architecture and ornamentations of the mosques which belong to different era, the fascinating bazaar, wonderful old bridges and a great variety of exotique handicrafts, Esfahan is undoubtedly Iran’s masterpiece.
The flight from Tehran takes about 40 minutes (and only cost me $35!). I began my two-day adventure with a walk to Jameh Mosque. The mosque is an extraordinary complex of mosques displaying styles from the 11th to the 18th century. It is also the biggest mosque in Iran. The moment I stepped into the complex, I was stunned with the exquisite blue mosaic style and the dazzling minarets. Obviously, it was a good scene to start my journey with. I just could not imagine that this mosque was once hit by an Iraqi bomb during the war, but suffered only minor damages.
My next destination would be the huge Emam Khomeini Square. But to reach there, I decided to walk through Bazar-e Bozorg (Great Bazaar) whereby you find people selling just about anything. Don’t be surprised if you get lost between the passages. The place really looks like a maze which links the Jame Mosque with the Emam Khomeini Square (Therefore, you need to learn some basic Farsi, such as “…koja st?” – where is the… as the people speak very little English.)
Once I managed to find the exit gateway of the ‘labyrinth’ , I was completely amazed with the scene ahead of me, the glorious Emam Khomeni Square. It is a huge rectangular square with a pool in the center. I could easily spotted three main Islamic buildings which soon became the highlight of my visit in Esfahan. On the east end stands the pale-dome Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque which, in my personal opinion, has the most gorgeous works on art reflected in its blue and turquoise mosaic that adorns the wall and ceiling. The motifs and calligraphy around the wall are superb and full of complexity (I wondered how long it took them to finish it!).
The Emam Mosque is another elegant mosque. At first, I was wondering why they built it with an angle against the Square. Soon I learned that it was purposely angled to point in the direction of the holy city of Mecca. The mosque itself comprises four iwans (halls) in one of which you could find the main sanctuary where you can contemplate the beauty of its golden rose pattern on the ceiling.
Having seen three beautiful mosques, Ali Qapu Palace (Gate of Ali - still in the Square) gave me a different perspective about the Islamic architecture. You can climb the to the terrace from where you will get the best view of the Square and the Emam Mosque. It is said that from the terrace the Safavid kings and the royal members used to oversee races and some entertainments performed in the square. You can sit there under the shade to relax a little bit.
The Emam Khomeni Square is undoubtedly Esfahan’s masterpiece. It is also a paradise for the souvenir shopping. A bazaar with hundreds of handicraft shops encircles the square. All you need is to bring Iranian Rials (credit cards would not be of a use in Iran) and your bargaining skill!
Another extraordinary work of art, Chehel Sotun Palace (Forty Columns), is also a walking distance and stands in an awesome Persian garden. In the beginning, I was confused with the name as I could only count 20 columns on its terrace. But then they told me that I had to see the reflections of the columns in the garden’s rectangular pool. Aha! Now I figured out the where the name of Forty Columns came from! Inside the Palace hall, you can enjoy a catalogue of historical frescoes in a grand scale, miniatures and ceramics.
Before sunset, I rushed to the luxurious Abassi Hotel that amazed me with its Persian-style decoration. It is definitely a perfect place to ling over an afternoon Iranian chay (tea) in its teahouse and rest my exhausted feet while enjoying the magnificence of the courtyard.
Heading back to my hotel, I walked past the Emam Khomeini Square when the day got dark. This time I was stunned with the number of local people flooding in and enjoying their dinner by the pool. With the fountains on, the lights and the illuminated splendid architecture, the night scene is way more lively than it is in the morning or early afternoon. It is a scene you would not find anywhere else.
Day Two
Day two is a bridge tour. But before driving (yes, this time I suggest you rent a taxi as the places are quite a distance from one to another) through the bridges, I had a chance to witness the uniqueness of the Shaking Minarets (Manar Jomban). Climb up to one of the minarets and push it hard. You will notice it will start to sway back and forth followed by its twin which stands about 10 meters apart. Amazing! It will leave you with a question mark in mind: how could that happen?
While speculating the answer, the taxi took me to the disused fire temple, Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan, which lies on the top of a small rocky hill which is quite steep to climb. These ancient mud-brick ruins gave me a stunning view of the city and the Zayandeh River. After all, it is worth climbing (I suggest you take a bottle of water with you as this could be quite an excessive exercise for some people).
The bridges are my next destination. They said there are 11 of them across the river. The 5 old bridges are definitely more of the tourist interests.
Si-o-She Bridge is probably one of the longest. The 160m-long bridge is worth wandering, though I personally prefer Khaju Bridge which was built in 1650. This finest bridge has two levels of terraces overlooking the river and mountains. Breathtaking view! Strolling along its 132-m length, I could hear some local people chanting traditional Persian songs. You could also enjoy the view and inhale the fresh air while sipping a cup of chay or Iranian ice cream by the river.
Chubi Bridge is another landmark of Esfahan though it could easily be ignored. Shahrestan Bridges is one of its kind. The oldest of all. The bridge has a unique 11-arched stone and brick structure which was believed to be built back in the 12 century.
While killing my time, waiting for my flight back to Tehran, I paid a visit to Jolfa, the Armenian quarter of Esfahan. It was an overwhelming feeling having learned that there are some Christian inhabitants in this country living in one community. My initial purpose was to visit Vank Cathedral, Church of Betlehem and Maryam Church. But I guess I arrived at the wrong time as none of them was open that afternoon. I could only enjoy their architectures from outside.
However, it did not disappoint me at all. After all, I have witnessed the triumphs of one of the ancient cities in the world with its incomparably unique and diverse architectures. The trip was fascinating and rewarding!
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